Outdoor flooring: how to lay outdoor tiles

Do you want to make new outdoor flooring but don’t know the right installation system for you? Of course, there are different methods of laying outdoor tiles, each suitable for different needs.

In this text we will delve into all the steps for the following types of outdoor flooring construction to find out how to make the most suitable one for your new outdoor space:

  • Laying floors with adhesive or mortar
  • Dry laying on lawn or gravel
  • Dry laying on natural soil with sand bedding
  • Floating or floating installation of outdoor tiles

Preliminary operations for the construction of outdoor flooring

First of all, it is essential to purchase the most suitable outdoor slabs for the intended use and driveway of the space you want to create.

Once the paving has been chosen, it is a good idea to check the thicknesses required for its construction: starting from the final height of the paving, it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the slabs, the thickness of the bedding (glue, mortar or sand) and any need for preparation of the subgrade because of the loads it will have to support.

Particular attention should be paid to checking the heights at thresholds, gratings, or other fixed elements of the area to be created.

Laying outdoor flooring with adhesive or mortar

Here are the steps to follow to lay outdoor flooring with adhesive or mortar:

  1. Make a layer of crushed stone or gravel. For proper installation, it is essential that the diameter of the granules be between 4 and 8 mm. The thickness will vary depending on the type of existing soil and the loads that the floor will have to support once in place;
  2. Make the screed: it should be reinforced and provided with mesh to increase its strength. The thickness will be variable depending on the expected loads;

    3. If you are laying already on a slab the first two points are not necessary and you can start from the following:

  3. Apply the elastic cement glue to the screed/slab and possibly also to the back of the outdoor tiles;
  4. Carry out tile laying;
  5. Take care to insert spacers between each tile. Spacers make it possible to create joints of about 6-10 mm between tiles. In case of tiles “without bevel” or “without chamfering” they will be larger in size, smaller for chamfered tiles;
  6. Seal the joints with the same bedding mortar or specific grout, taking care not to soil the surface of the tiles.

Regarding the application of adhesive in the case of areas intended for light driveway use-such as driveway entrances or car-pit passageways-we recommend the use of the “double spreading” technique. The goal is to be able to evenly distribute the adhesive/mortar while trying to completely cover the entire area dedicated to paving.

The more the base of the slab is covered by the adhesive, the better the final result of the installation will be!

Dry laying of outdoor paving on lawn and gravel

Dry-laying, in addition to being easy, fast, and inexpensive, allows tiles to be easily removed even after many years in order to gain access to underground utilities without the need for demolition, then allowing outdoor pavements to be restored with the same tiles previously removed, thus without the need to purchase new ones.

In the case of dry laying of slabs on lawn and gravel, the following steps should be taken:

  1. Remove about 7 to 8 cm of soil at the spot where the slab will be placed;
  2. Apply a 3-4 cm layer of crushed stone or gravel;
  3. Settle the gravel bed by beating it with mechanical beaters or manually;
  4. Carry out tile laying;
  5. When using outdoor tiles without a spacer, take care to leave a joint between each tile. This joint should be larger in case of tiles “without bevel” or “without beveling.”
  6. Seal joints with fine dried sand or polymeric sand.

Dry laying of outdoor paving on natural soil with sand bedding

Let us now look at the steps to be taken in case of dry laying on natural soil:

  1. Apply a 4-5 cm layer of bedding sand over the compacted natural soil – possibly lay down geotextile before the sand;
  2. Stabilize the sand to obtain an even laying surface;
  3. Carry out the installation of the tiles. In the case of outdoor tiles with spacers – such as those from the BAGAflame line – you will be able to put the tiles in contact with each other; in the case of tiles without spacers, you will need to create a small joint (4-8mm) instead. The joint will be wider in case of tiles “without bevel” or “without beveling” on the perimeter;
  4. Seal joints with fine dried sand or polymeric sand.

Floating or floating installation of outdoor tiles

The term “floating installation” refers to a system of installing outdoor flooring on a frame structure. Thus, the plates will rest on supports and will not be in direct contact with the ground. This type of laying is suitable only for areas for pedestrian use only.

Here, then, are the steps required to carry out a floating or floating installation of flooring:

  1. Make a layer of crushed stone or gravel. For proper laying, it is essential that the diameter of the granules be between 4 and 8 mm. The thickness will vary depending on the existing soil type;
  2. Make the screed: it should be reinforced and provided with mesh to increase its strength;

    3. If you are laying on a slab the first two points are not necessary and you can start from the following:

  3. Arrange supports of the necessary thickness and type according to your needs. In fact, it is possible to lay floors on substrates as thick as 14 mm up to more than 600 mm, with fixed or movable heads;
  4. Lay the tiles on the substrates. Remember that the number of supports per slab may vary depending on the size of the slabs. Therefore, it is good to make sure first to know the number of supports needed depending on the product chosen

In case there is pre-existing flooring-as long as it is level and in good condition-you can lay the supports directly on it. It is also possible to lay directly over waterproofing sheaths. In the latter case, it will be necessary to assess the sheath’s resistance to the total weight of supports, tiles, and expected loads and, if necessary, to lay down a layer of geotextile or other material to preserve the sheath from possible breakage.